A photo and 1,200 words

I can’t believe it’s already been ten years since my (then) enRoute editor Arjun had a short meeting with me on a sunny Montreal patio with the idea that I should: “Eat across Canada and do my thing.” Seriously, those were his full instructions.

From there, together we did resto research and amassed our first panel of food writers who recommended the best new places I should eat in their hometowns. Then we booked me into Holiday Inns across the country (the one true mistake of that trip), and off I went.

Were we overly ambitious that first year? Seeing as I ate at over 50 restaurants during a month of travelling, some days hitting two cities and eating two three-course meals per day -- I'd say yes. And did I have to buy a new pair of jeans by the time I had rounded the west and was headed back east to Montreal? Indubitably.

But it was good, tasty fun that I wouldn't have changed for the world, then I did it again the following year and then I was full.

I still write regularly for enRoute and in fact have a feature in the splashy new Food Issue, which hits seatbacks November 1st. This is the story that matches this photo (though do try to snag a hard copy of the magazine for all the sumptuous photos, spirited stories and lovely layouts).

I've been wanting to tell people about the great Black Forest region called Baiersbronn, which I visited in March, and now that the November issue is out I can finally yammer on about it.

Know that this is a place you should definitely visit, and an area I plan to return to. Not just because it’s easy to get to and gorgeous and your Michelin-starred dollars go far and the spas are incredible and the hotels and service are peerless. But also because the people are nice and the Black Forest cake is to die for. I travel a lot, maybe too much because it's becoming rarer for a place to surprise and enchant as much as Baiersbronn did.

I'm telling you, it really knocked my lederhosen off.

Three-star eats

This photo is of one of the 369 appetizers I ate while on a recent trip to Baiersbronn, Germany, researching a story I’m writing for enRoute magazine.

Part of the trip involved eating at Michelin starred restaurants, with each meal clocking in at roughly 4.5 hours. Very time consuming and filling! But also, surprisingly fun. (And obviously, totally delish.) You can read all about my experiences sometime later this year (if you choose), but in the meantime I can tell you this: I was stunned by how approachable three-star Michelin dining could be. Sure, the service was over the top, yet at the same time, sort of personable and chummy. The food was impeccable, out of this world, but not of the heavy old-world playbook I had been expecting.

That’s all I’ll say for now, as I fear I’ve already said too much, yet I still feel compelled to finish with this tip: You can dine at three-star Michelin restaurants in Baiersbronn, for as little as $185 euros per person. Compare that with what a three-star would cost you in Paris (eg. Guy Savoy is at least double that), which is probably why there were so many Viennese and Parisians filling the gleaming German dining rooms.

Imagine: A flight to Frankfurt then a speedy two-hour train ride, and you’re in the Black Forest eating a five-hour meal.

Guten Appetit!

Eat here: Satteleihuette

This is a meal from one of four huts in the Baiersbronn hiking region, deep within Germany's Black Forest. The "hut" is a gorgeous post and beam structure, while the menu of traditional local food is carved into wooden menus; your order then served by smiling women in dirndls.

The fire burned brightly as both hikers and villagers out for a stroll, put down their walking sticks and picked up glasses of beer and Riesling, and forks with which to dig into plates of traditional ravioli sided by creamy potato salad, beef soup, meatballs, and apple cake with whipped cream.

You know, a nice light lunch.